The Best Of Bali

Hot destinations come and go, but some, like Bali, are perennial favorites. The Indonesian idyll has never been more popular. With good reason. A rich culture still permeates all aspects of life, lending an allure that make the Island of the gods a place people return to again and again. Close your eyes and think of a crimson bloom tucked behind a waiter’s ear; a rhythmic gamelan tinkling from a distant temple ceremony, rising above the hum of the ordinary; the scent of sweet incense wafting from a household shrine—all of these weave together to form a compelling and colorful tapestry of life.

On Bali, the traditional and modern collide. The southern side of the island offers edgy bars that wouldn’t be out of place in Sydney; quirky boutiques showcase curios both local and from around the globe; world-class spas pamper at competitive prices; and flash beachside cabanas tempt you to sit back in the sun and do nothing at all.

But Bali is much more than this and deserves exploration beyond the busy palimpsest of its south. Retreat to the cooler hills of Ubud, beach hop along the east or west coasts, or snorkel in the protected national park in the northwest. Succumb to the slower elsewhere on the island, and you too will realize that one trip just isn’t enough.

EAT

Asian street-food inspired dishes with lavish surrounds, showing that top dining in Bali isn’t always about sea views. There aren’t any here. Start with a cocktail in the open-air bar, which flows into the more formal dining area.

■ If you’re looking for authentic Balinese food in an upscale setting, there’s nowhere else like The Warung at Alila Villas Uluwatu, which delivers simple classics such as ayam betutu(whole roast baby chicken in banana leaf) atop a cliff with soaring views across the Indian Ocean. Note the batik stamps worked into the polished surrounds.

■ It faces stiff competition from new Seminyak bar rivals these days but beach side Ku De Ta remains a Bali institution and a must-stop spot for sunset drinks at least once during a visit to Bali. The cocktails are taken seriously here, with classics given a hipster twist—think Earl Grey martini or raspberry, cucumber and elder flower Collins—but don’t overlook the award-winning kitchen, either. Among the must-orders is the slow-roasted lamb shoulder, served with potatoes and rosemary galette, garlic greens and tomato relish.

■ Decades-old Mak Beng is a hugely popular lunch spot in Sanur, where you’ll elbow locals out of the way for a dish of steaming fish soup and fried fish served with a fiery sambal. Equally popular among locals but also a huge hit with tourists is Ibu Oka, famed for its owner’s take on Bali’s most celebrated dish, babi guling, or spit-roasted suckling pig. The crowds go through five or six delectably spiced pigs for lunch per day; pair one with a Teh Botol, Indonesia’s popular sweetened jasmine tea, for a typical Balinese fast food meal with class.

■ It’s a rite of passage for anyone who makes it to Bali: a visit to the beachfront seafood stalls at Jimbaran Bay. Diners select their fresh seafood, including crabs, lobsters, prawns and squid, all grilled to perfection and served at casual tables on the beach. Though most stalls are reliable, one local favorite is Menega.

■ You’re always guaranteed a raucous night of fun at the picnic tables of Naughty Nuri’s. An eclectic range of Western and Asian dishes make up the menu, but most come for the barbecued pork ribs and the cocktails.